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Subject Topic: Bad gas mileage Post ReplyPost New Topic
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kcidmil
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Posted: Apr 09 2008 at 7:33am | IP Logged Quote kcidmil

I don't forsee 10% becoming mandated on every octane across the country.  A lot of people still own cars like my 90 maxima that cannot run the 10% ethanol as it destroys our injectors. 

Besides, the cons of how much ethanol is really costing is starting to show it's ugly head.   

BTW cpow, just mix in some Dextron III into your diesel with the low-sulfur, and you'll be good to go.



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dannyg
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Posted: Apr 09 2008 at 4:18pm | IP Logged Quote dannyg

dannyg here this is for the ones with the 4.0 motor 265hp and 284tq thats more than some V8 trucks if you pull 13-17 mpg city thats good and 18-22 highway thatts good rember gears and tire size may change mpg but if u have a big right foot that hurts it the most also one more thing name brand gas stations can help in mpg

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skello
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Posted: Apr 23 2008 at 9:08pm | IP Logged Quote skello

Boomer:

You've mentioned 24-25 mpg in many different threads.  To achieve this mileage you've taken the following steps:

  • use of synthetic oil in the engine
  • use of synthetic oil in the differential
  • use of premium fuel
  • Maintaining 60-65 mph on the freeway
  • slow acceleration
My truck has the NISMO package and thus the D44 rear end.  You've got the SE and probably a Nissan rear axle.  Is there any difference in the ring/pinion ratio between the SE and the NISMO vehicles?  Anyone know?

Have you checked the speedometer in your SE?  If your tires are slightly smaller (dynamic rolling radius, not just static size) than what is on the Nismo, and the speedometer does not reflect even a 1% difference (very common), this may also contribute slightly to your numbers being higher than anyone else.

Based on your recommendation I switched to premium gasoline.  The last tank I averaged 15.5 (BP 93) and this tank I'm averaging about 15.7 (Costco 93).

I bought 5W-30 Mobil 1 and will switch to it this weekend to see if it makes a difference.

I will swap out the differentials with Amsoil very soon.

Now, regarding the use of premium fuel -- have you tried running 87?  I am really struggling with the notion that changing fuel will impact economy by 2 mpg or more.  A fuel's octane rating simply reflects the fuel's ability to resist self-ignition -- therefore:
  • unless we KNOW that our engine controller WILL ADJUST ITSELF (i.e., by retarding timing?) to avoid knock, and:
  • the use of 87 octane in this engine CAN CAUSE knock
... then the use of premium fuel seems to be a waste of money.

The use of synthetic lubricants is interesting though, and I'm going to try it.

Another note:

My '06 has a radiator fan on a mechanical clutch.  In the past few months I've noticed that the clutch isn't disengaging when I think it should be (should be plenty cool enough to disengage), or it is engaging when it shouldn't be (i.e. it isn't warm enough yet).  For example, I've just existed the highway, cruising at 70 mph.  Ambient temperature is 65 degrees F.  I'm decelerating on the off ramp and come to a stop.  When I go to accelerate away from the stop sign, I hear the unmistakable WHOOOOSSSHHHHHH of the radiator fan, wasting energy when it shouldn't be.  I can only assume that the fan clutch is locked while I am on the freeway.

I'm going to have the dealer look at this, but I'm not expecting much.

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dannyg
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Posted: Apr 24 2008 at 9:53pm | IP Logged Quote dannyg

when i got 24mpg was a steady 75-80mph all was highway miles travelrd with semi stntheic oil at that time and it was 87 at the time octane began being a factor after seeing the c/r of the motor and i`ve got 15.4-17mpg town driving the full syntheic help little and felt slight power increase and oil pressure now to gears my rear is that odd D44 with 2.93 gear and u should have 3.73 gear your millage should be better round town than mine and a little less highway most frontiers that `ive seen get 15-25 mpg i1ve always been a mid grade man myself but with 3.67 gallon gas run what u can 92-94 octane good while towing

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skello
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Posted: Apr 26 2008 at 11:39am | IP Logged Quote skello

dannyg wrote:
when i got 24mpg was a steady 75-80mph all was highway miles travelrd with semi stntheic oil at that time and it was 87 at the time octane began being a factor after seeing the c/r of the motor and i`ve got 15.4-17mpg town driving the full syntheic help little and felt slight power increase and oil pressure now to gears my rear is that odd D44 with 2.93 gear and u should have 3.73 gear your millage should be better round town than mine and a little less highway most frontiers that `ive seen get 15-25 mpg i1ve always been a mid grade man myself but with 3.67 gallon gas run what u can 92-94 octane good while towing


Highest I've ever recorded was 21 mpg average, traveling through Michigan's Upper Peninsula with the cruise set at 55 mph. 

I bought Amsoil for the front diff, will hopefully install this weekend.

As far as synthetic in the rear differential -- the manual says it already HAS synthetic...  So I don't expect to get much better performance by swapping it out.  (The front diff, however, seems to be regular oil.)

The manual also mentions specifically to switch to higher octane fuel IF the engine starts to knock/ping.  To me this indicates that the engine will NOT retard timing on its own -- thus higher octane fuel should not make any difference with regards to mileage.

The manual agrees with what you said dannyg, about using higher octane fuel when the engine is under heavy load (such as when climbing a hill, it indicates that you MAY hear knock/ping that is normal when the engine is working hard).

I can post the appropriate sections from the manual later -- I don't have it here in front of me now.
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Posted: Apr 26 2008 at 12:15pm | IP Logged Quote skello

I stand corrected -- there *IS* a knock sensor on the VQ and QR engines, according to the factory service manual.  Here is what it says:

Component Description
The knock sensor is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is sensed as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the ECM.

(...)

The knock sensor retard system is designed only for emergencies. The basic ignition timing is programmed within the anti-knocking zone, if recommended fuel is used under dry conditions. The retard system does not operate under normal driving conditions. If engine knocking occurs, the knock sensor monitors the condition. The signal is transmitted to the ECM. The ECM retards the ignition timing to eliminate the knocking condition.


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Moondoggie
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Posted: May 05 2008 at 5:19pm | IP Logged Quote Moondoggie

I have a 2006 Frontier 2.5L with about 25,000 mles on it. It has been somewhat disappointing in the gas milage too. Around town (Houston suburb) I get about 21 mpg on regular with 10% ethanol (sometimes more % at some stations since I shop cheapest gas). But I expected more on highway and it only went to 22 mpg.Confused I am an "old" '83 Nissan King Cab guy who put over 196,000 on the 2.4 liter over 15 years. It had the carb instead of FI and was best vehicle I ever owned bar-none.Smile It got 25-26 mpg in town and on trips with bed loaded (with daughters college apt furniture) and rolling hills it managed 30 mpg. Geez I miss it!

I have always done my own upkeep and maintenance as much as possible, but this "new" Frontier is very hands off except for oil changes and brakes. On the old one after 100,000 mi I had to fix one A/C leak, later replace one alternator, later one water pump, one front brake caliper and one freeze plug. Everything else was original including clutch and I drove the heck out of it. The engine started dying and leaving me on side of road and after all kinds of trouble shooting decided I couldn't afford a $700 carb so I sold it. Cry, cry!

Any tips would be appreciated.



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Posted: May 25 2008 at 11:26am | IP Logged Quote nismod

I have a 2005 NISMO crew cab 4x4 and the best I ever got was 19.5mpg running at 65 - 75 mph all highway driving.

Regular driving for me (70% highway at 75 mph ave & 30% city stop & go) gets me between 16 - 17.2 mpg.

Remember the way that they rate trucks is based on a 50 mile run at roughly 50 - 52 mph max without stops in optimum conditions (no hills). 

My truck gets about 13.5 mpg when I tow my 17' Lund ProSport (fully rigged with 90hp & 9.9hp, full tank of gas, downriggers, all equipment).

Should have kept my Avalanche.....at least it didn't go through a driveshaft assembly, a head replacement, and spent more than half of its time in a stealership in the past 4 months like my Nissan has.



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dannyg
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Posted: May 26 2008 at 1:30pm | IP Logged Quote dannyg

To moondoggie these newer frontiers are a lot heavier thsn your old datsun/nisssan and and earlier frontiers to that could br hurtting that 2.5 motor also remeber that 2.5 has more power and the extra diplacemant of it could hurt you to         &nbs p;        

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Posted: Jun 21 2008 at 9:23pm | IP Logged Quote Batt105

I am a newb to this site but I love it. On MPG, I just bought a 2008 Frontier SE Crew cab. I have been keeping up with MPG religuosly(sp) since i bought the truck. I have been averaging 20MPG. The highest I have gotten is 24MPG on a road trip to Nashville. 80% of my driving pattern is between 50mph and 60 mph on two lane roads. It is totally stock with a bed cover and using the 83oct.  I broke it in per the manual and am pretty light footed. Like some of you guys, I feel your driving patterns and how heavy your foot is, plays a big factor in MPG. The gas that I used when I got the 24MPG was Sams Club gas. I now have 2500 miles on my truck.

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