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supbud
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Posted: Mar 26 2008 at 10:49pm | IP Logged Quote supbud

well it stopped for a few weeks and then this week it started back up again so i flushed the radiator several times i figured it had an air pocket in it...........i flushed the old coolant then i filled the cooling system with water let it run to operating temp. and then flushed it again and i repeated it again then i ran super flush through it then i flushed it again with water two more times then i filled with with anti freeze and water and it did perfectly fine till today when i was pulling my boat up a steep hill it started back up so i still dont know
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lakota
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Posted: Mar 27 2008 at 3:50pm | IP Logged Quote lakota

..

supbud;

... This may be why the prievous owner dumped the truck but still it needs to be fixed. the Water pump impeller might be bad. Or the intake hose collapsing. If the over heating happens above twenty mph and under cases where slightly more power is used than normal read the following link and don't laff!
FSJ Aerodynamics 101

I wrote this artcle for Full Size Jeeps but it applies to many trucks. An air dam will help suck more air throgh the radiator causing the truck to run cooler.

Have a good one while you can still laugh about it.. Don S..

Higher fuel mileage? We need a government study to show the benefits of making ethanol from Marijuana and Agaves plants.

Alas .. Probably be more suicides from those trying to die by exhaust fumes.

 



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'76 4x4 401 Wagoneer QT
'04 FWD 1.8 Sentra '08 FWD 2.4 Camry LE
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supbud
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Posted: Mar 27 2008 at 6:02pm | IP Logged Quote supbud

how do i have the water pump impeller and intake hose checked anyway ????  well i have the k&amp;n cold air intake system i figured that would give it more air flow and help the cooling down part..... and on that article on the air dam are u suggesting i should make a air dam for it???
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lakota
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Posted: Mar 27 2008 at 11:39pm | IP Logged Quote lakota

supbud wrote:
how do i have the water pump impeller and intake hose checked anyway ????  well i have the k&amp;n cold air intake system i figured that would give it more air flow and help the cooling down part..... and on that article on the air dam are u suggesting i should make a air dam for it???

..

supbud;

To check the intake hose -watch it while someone suddenly revs up the engine. BE Careful! If it collapses it’s bad.

The impeller is a flow test - you drain and save the coolant mix, remove thermostat replace the housing and then with cold water in the system aim the output hose out from under the hood. At idle it should have very good flow. Turn the engine off before the radiator is emptied.

... I made my air dam for my old Jeep from scrap aluminum. Front ground effect plastic parts should be available from J.C Whitney.

 

Here's another thought... If you've got an automatic!

The job of the add on Transmission cooler is to help dissipate heat but why put this additional heat in front of the radiator and in front of the air conditioning condenser?

Most modern vehicles are operating at temperatures over two hundred degrees and are being taxed to handle the added heat of transmissions under a heavy load. So in many cases the oil is going back into the transmission too hot. The life of the automatic transmission relies on the life of the oil and the additives in the oil and heat shortens the life of the oil and the additives in them.
... Add on coolers should be used as
pre-coolers in series with the cooling core in the radiator. An after-cooler would cool the transmission oil better but still put too much heat into the engine coolant as well as be too cool in the wcooler in the hot out-put line between the transmission and radiator and it and it will be a pre-cooler. I used a clear piece of hose connected to the in and out cooling lines to find out which was which. After connecting the clear hose have someone start the engine while you watch to see which way the bubbles flow to tell which line is which.

The Pre Cooler will reduce the frequency of needed automatic transmission fluid changes.

 

TIP: I have noticed many stock cooling lines need to be insulated from headers and pipes.... I shielded my cooling lines with a scrap piece of aluminum.

... First look for a mounting place away from the exhaust system. Look for mounting places under the bed. The cooler will dissipate a lot of heat even without much air flow because the oil will be VERY hot when the transmission is under a load. For HD towing a small 12 volt fan could be installed.

 

The Pre Cooler will reduce the frequency of needed automatic transmission fluid changes.

... I mounted a pre-cooler to the top of the front skid shield (passenger side behind the radiator) on my wife’s V-8 ‘99 Grand Cherokee. I noticed later there was a nice safe place under the body behind the drivers seat.

 

 

Have a good one while you can still laugh about it.. Don S..

There was a time when some people got rich buy providing a better product at a lower price.

Now they get rich by ripping us off and paying off the politicians. Can you spell DEREGULATION

 



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PLEASE >>> A SIG similar to mine can be VERY HELPFUL to all the members!
'99 4x4 3.3 Frontier Se KC Auto, 48,000 miles
'76 4x4 401 Wagoneer QT
'04 FWD 1.8 Sentra '08 FWD 2.4 Camry LE
Fort Worth
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crsticken
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Posted: Jul 07 2011 at 2:10pm | IP Logged Quote crsticken

Nelson37 wrote:

Subpud,

dannyg has a point as far as the head gasket.  I didn't want to go down that road, but since you continue to have problems, it's always a possibility.  Pull your oil cap off and look at the underside of it.  Does it look kind of milky?  Like a shake?  Pull the dipstick out.  Does the oil on it look milky?  If no, then at least you probably aren't getting any coolant in the oil which can put a lot of premature wear on the rings and bearings. Remove the radiator cap and let the truck get up to full operating temperature.  Do you see air bubbles constantly coming up?  Try driving the truck with the radiator cap on only half way and see if it gets hot.  What this does is prevent the cooling system from building up pressure which could force the coolant into a cylinder through a blown head gasket/cracked or warped head etc...  If you can find a reputable shop near you, they should be able to test the cooling system for exhaust gas in it.  It's known as a "block check".

The cooling system is the most important part of your engine and can cost you the most money in the long run so don't cut any corners and take good care of it.  Keep us informed!!



What if it does get hot with the cap turned half a turn? I know this is an old post but I am having these same issues on my 02 crewcab, no superchrage. No coolant in oil and no visible signs of leaking coolant. I had to refill every once in a while but here recently it has just been over heating. ALOT. I have flushed the coolant several times, changed the thermostat. When driving, I can turn the heater on and it'll drop then come back up, then turn it off and it'll drop and come back up.
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lakota
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Posted: Jul 07 2011 at 4:11pm | IP Logged Quote lakota

..

I bought a lazer heat detector. It will tell you if it is really hot or not. The gauge might be effected by voltage changes when blowers are off and on. The lazer heat detector can even help tell which spark plug is not firing and many other things.

BTW.. Bug juice and road grime in the radiator core plus some kinds of paint are insulators and don't transfer heat very well. The inside of the core may have a coating of minerals that reduce heat transfer.... Have you used distilled water?

Good Luck.. Don S..



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PLEASE >>> A SIG similar to mine can be VERY HELPFUL to all the members!
'99 4x4 3.3 Frontier Se KC Auto, 48,000 miles
'76 4x4 401 Wagoneer QT
'04 FWD 1.8 Sentra '08 FWD 2.4 Camry LE
Fort Worth
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supbud
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Posted: Jul 29 2011 at 11:12am | IP Logged Quote supbud

well i no longer have the 2000 frontier i miss it very much. i wrecked it twice in 2 months the 2nd time i wrecked i flipped it on its side. i got more out of it by having it totaled. i wish i would have never done that cause i have a sport trac now. but anyways back to the issue.
I did finally have the overheating problem fixed and it was the head gasket. the mechanic had it broke down to the block he showed me the head gaskets one had just barely a hairline crack  on it and had them changed and if you already have your motor broke down that far mine as well change our timing belt and if you having a issue with the knock sensor its right below the intake and easy to get to and mine as well spend the money and change it. i didnt but the mechanic changed head gasket and timing belt put it back together never over heated again. i believe he did have the heads checked i cant remember if any machine work was done but the mechanic did it all for $300 which was awesome and hes one the best in my area and did an excellent job i should have taken  it to him all along cause i put about 3 thermostats coolant temp sensor a water pump and even a new radiator .
all that money spent and everything probably could have been avoided if i would have listen to my shop teacher all along who told me a head gasket every time i brought it in to class and i never wanted to listen to him. so spend the money have the head gasket checked!!! frontiers are awesome trucks they dont even compare to the ford im driving now. i miss my frontier very much but im married and have 2 year old now and my priorities have changed a little but i will own a frontier again hopefully soon good luck
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lakota
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Posted: Jul 29 2011 at 3:34pm | IP Logged Quote lakota

..

supbud

Thanks very much for coming back to us with the report.

Have a good one.. Don S.. 



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PLEASE >>> A SIG similar to mine can be VERY HELPFUL to all the members!
'99 4x4 3.3 Frontier Se KC Auto, 48,000 miles
'76 4x4 401 Wagoneer QT
'04 FWD 1.8 Sentra '08 FWD 2.4 Camry LE
Fort Worth
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ddman
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Posted: Aug 14 2011 at 7:14pm | IP Logged Quote ddman

sup guys..

i've frequented this forum since i bought my truck last year, it's a 2002 XE 4x4 model and it's got 93k when i bought it.  i like reading the threads here specially on issues and how they were resolved with the help of other members which is awesome.

anyhow, i didn't have major issues with my truck since i've owned it, it's been a reliable daily commuter for me.  until last month coming back from a camping trip, it was a hot late afternoon day and i was driving towards west, so the sun was directly in front of me.  A/C was max'd and really working hard but still blowing cold air, no problem there.  but when i reached an uphill stretch, temp started to climb up slowly and steadily while running at 80mph. before it reached that hot line (before the redline) i have to turn off the A/C and slow down a bit (65mph)and the temp stopped going up but still above normal.  when the road is straight or downhill, temp would go back to normal (gauge at middle) even with A/C ON.  everytime i hit a longer uphill road, same thing would happen.  i know older cars have the same issue when climbing an uphill road, but i'm not sure if that is typical for the frontiers.  i wasn't carrying heavy load that time, i couldn't imagine if i am towing or carrying heavy load, it would be a challenge driving on an uphill.

so is that normal for frontiers?  is there somebody here that had the same issue?  i'd really appreciate any feedback.  thanks!
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lakota
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Posted: Aug 14 2011 at 10:22pm | IP Logged Quote lakota

..

Welcome to the group!

   The engine gets hotter as power is increased and all the gears get hotter as the power is transmitted. Many things effect the cooling of these items. Low or dirty coolant, eroded water pump impeller, dirty fins in the core, stopped up tubes in the core, low/no coolant pressure, fan clutch bad, fan shroud missing, fan belt loose, engine not tuned, blown head gasket, air dam missing, and ETC.

    Then we can add brakes dragging, plugged exhaust, automatic transmission problems, heavy loads, and added air drag. Oh!... and dragging your feet!... just to name a few!

 

Have a cool one.. Don S..



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PLEASE >>> A SIG similar to mine can be VERY HELPFUL to all the members!
'99 4x4 3.3 Frontier Se KC Auto, 48,000 miles
'76 4x4 401 Wagoneer QT
'04 FWD 1.8 Sentra '08 FWD 2.4 Camry LE
Fort Worth
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