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davidjbrady
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Posted: Jan 03 2021 at 3:43pm | IP Logged Quote davidjbrady

Hi. After days on end my truck is slow to start. Sounds like weak
battery.Alternator was replaced 2 years ago, everything else besides
battery is original, with the exception of routine maintenance.   I
disconnected negative battery cable, and connected a test light to the
neg battery post, and battery cable. Test light comes on telling me that
current is being drawn. All doors windows closed. I removed all fuses
one by one and put them back in, glovebox fuse panel. After each
instance test light remained on. Any suggestions where to look next.
Possible bad diode in alternator. I turned off dome lights during the test
too.

Thanks in advance

David

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08 Frontier CC, 4X4, LWB
15 Altima S
Sacramento, CA
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Rubble
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Posted: Jan 03 2021 at 6:04pm | IP Logged Quote Rubble

davidjbrady wrote:
Hi. After days on end my truck is
slow to start. Sounds like weak
battery.Alternator was replaced 2 years ago, everything
else besides
battery is original, with the exception of routine
maintenance.   I
disconnected negative battery cable, and connected a test
light to the
neg battery post, and battery cable. Test light comes on
telling me that
current is being drawn. All doors windows closed. I
removed all fuses
one by one and put them back in, glovebox fuse panel.
After each
instance test light remained on. Any suggestions where to
look next.
Possible bad diode in alternator. I turned off dome lights
during the test
too.

Thanks in advance

David


David,

I've read that these truck's have a steady current draw,
although very small, for the immobolizer, etc. My truck
deffinitely has one. 2013 SVV6 Frontier.

I'm on my 2nd battery now since about a year ago. Here's
one thing that I use on everything and really help's me. A
Schumacher SP1297 3A (12V Only) Smart Charger for Lead Acid
as well as Lithium Ion Batterie's. Soon as you hook it up
to charge it give's the % of Charge that the Battery has
and proceed's to charge it up as well as giveing the % of
Charge as the Battery is chargeing. This help's me to know
how the battery is holding up. This charger also has the
ability to rejuvenate a sulfated battery as long as it's
not completely dead. The SP1297 come's with a Permanent
attach Pigtail, so you won't have to use the Aligator
Clip's. I've put the permanent attach pigtail's on
everything ie Truck, Tractor, LawnMower. It's a supper
ease way to attach the charger and forget about it, while
it doe's it's thing. Here's the link on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SP1297-Automatic-Battery-
Maintainer/dp/B0756PV96N/ref=asc_df_B0756PV96N/?tag=hyprod-
20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312632042117&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=
5915939893582476064&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl
=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012925&hvtargid=pla-
763455195512&psc=1

Are you keeping your Battery Terminal's Clean and Tight? I
ccoat the Bare metal Cable End's while connected to the
Battery Terminal's with a Real Thick coating of Grease.
Been doing that for a long long time and work's really good
to prevent corrosion.

I would use a multimeter tester to see how much draw is on
your battery when everything is off. Can you disconnect
one of the main Lead's to your Alternator to see how much
draw if any are going though your alternator when
everything is off?

Regards,



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2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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davidjbrady
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Posted: Jan 03 2021 at 6:44pm | IP Logged Quote davidjbrady

Voltmeter showed 11.6 volts.

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15 Altima S
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Posted: Jan 03 2021 at 9:17pm | IP Logged Quote Rubble

davidjbrady wrote:
Voltmeter showed 11.6 volts.


David,

I would be wanting to know the Draw in Amps or Milliamps so I
could compare with the draw of thing's like bulb's etc.

Regards,

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2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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davidjbrady
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Posted: Jan 04 2021 at 6:26pm | IP Logged Quote davidjbrady

I show .8 (point 8) amps draw with voltmeter on 10A setting

Thanks


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Rubble
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Posted: Jan 04 2021 at 8:04pm | IP Logged Quote Rubble

davidjbrady wrote:
I show .8 (point 8) amps draw with
voltmeter on 10A setting

Thanks


David,

I'm not a professional mechanic, but if I got that
translated correctly, that's about 800 milliamp's which is
way above 100 milliamp's that I've read can be deemed
normal parasitic drain.

If it were me, I would take it to Nissan and let them find
where the parasitic drain is comeing from.

When you did this measurement was that @ the Alternator?
If so then I would suspect the Alternator, like you
suspected.

I've read that place's like Autozone, Advance, can test the
Alternator, but I don't know if they can check for
parasitic drain. That would be why I would want Nissan to
check it out.

Also I'm wondering why the original alternator needed to be
replaced. On electrical a lot of this stuff need's to be
OE Nissan or a Very Reputable Brand.

There is a Fellow over on:

https://www.nissanforums.com/forums/#nissan-trucks.396

This is the Main Site and there is a Sub Site
(ClubFrontier.org) for Frontier's, but I don't like the
Subsite cause there are too many there that don't know what
they are talking about.

Actually there are about 3 or so that seem to know there
stuff, ie SMJ & Rogoman come to mind. SMJ used to be a
Nissan Master Tech and Rogoman seem's to know his stuff as
well.

I would post your problem over there and see if they can
help you a lot more than I can. They can help steer you
toward the best brand of part to get as well, that will
help you save money in the long run.

When you get it straightened out, don't forget the
Schumacher SP1297 3amp Lead Acid/Lithium Ion Smart Charger
Maintainer.

I wish I could help more, but I'm affraid I might give bad
advice.

Good Luck,



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2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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davidjbrady
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Posted: Jan 09 2021 at 3:27pm | IP Logged Quote davidjbrady

Just an update... I found out when I remove the fuse
labeled "electric parts" 10 amp fuse located in the fuse
block next to glove box, the voltage draw disappers.
Any way to find out what devices are on this circuit?

Thanks,

David

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15 Altima S
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Posted: Jan 09 2021 at 4:32pm | IP Logged Quote Rubble

davidjbrady wrote:
Just an update... I found out when I
remove the fuse
labeled "electric parts" 10 amp fuse located in the fuse
block next to glove box, the voltage draw disappers.
Any way to find out what devices are on this circuit?

Thanks,

David


David,

I would look at the Electrical Schematic in the Service
Manual. There are Free Nissan Service Manual Download's on
the WWW and also Cheap Download's that you can load into a
Folder on Your Desktop.

I'm not all that good with Electrical, and I would take it
to Nissan for them to figure it out.

If Nissan wasn't an option, I would study that Service
Manaul and then without Engine Running, Take out that 10amp
fuse and turn the ignition to ON (Without Cranking Engine),
and see if any light's in the Dash aren't on that are
supposed to be, then start checking all the Light's One At
a Time and turning them back off, ie Interior Light's,
Tail Light's, Brake Light's, Backup Light's, Parking
Light's, Head light's Dim and Bright, Radio, Heater Fan,
Air Redirector's, Every electrical that You can think of
to see what if any are on that Fuse Circuit.

If none are found that way then I'm thinking that it will
be on the Engine Running circuit's and for that I would
want a Professional to Diagnose that @ Nissan. Just too
easy to Spike one of the Electronic Control Module's and
they can be Very Very $$$$ Expensive. Even a Loose
positive Battery Terminal can Spike the ECU and damage it,
requiring Replacement.

Best of Luck,

PS- My '13 has a USB outlet inside the Armrest Center
Console. Check that outlet to make sure something isn't
plugged into it, as well as shine a good light on the
Contact's to make sure they aren't makeing contact with
each other. Just a guess that the Electrical Outlet's
might be the problem. Might be some liquid spilled into
that outlet.

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