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sionisprioratus
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| Posted: Aug 28 2022 at 2:19pm | IP Logged
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Rubble, thank you for the advise. Will keep you posted as
things develop.
Stay safe
Sionis
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Happy owner of a 2000 Fronty
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sionisprioratus
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| Posted: Aug 29 2022 at 9:45am | IP Logged
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Hello Rubble,
There is one other thing that I need to add to my ordeal.....
Today I drove again the Fronty on the highway and started
doing the same thing....
So, After I saw the speed and tach not being in sync, I took a
side road to I65, took the fronty to about 60mph, and of
course the tach was over 3k rpm's so I pressed the Overdrive
button on the side of the shifter, and nothing, the truck did
not downshifted. Engaged the OD, Tried to speed up a bit,
65mph and still OD was not engaging….
Long story short, I am taking the Fronty to the Transmission
place that worked on my truck and replaced the tranny
several years ago this Thursday…..
Will keep updating as the events unfold…….
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sionisprioratus
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| Posted: Oct 22 2022 at 5:43pm | IP Logged
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Hello Rubble,
Well, I have some news....
I took the Fronty to the Transmission center, and after being scared half to dead with possible issues:
1- Lockup Converter Solenoid (hope for this one) and/ or
2- Wide Open Throttle switch. and or
3- Valve body. (there is no one available at all).
So, way back in 2006 the tranny started doing something weird: When temps get below 50 degrees, I would start up the truck, for
the fist 1/10 of mile, it will not engage in 1st. I had to manually place the shifter in 2nd and then keep on driving. Once it warmed
up, life was good. This happened only when it got cold. So I was advised by a "shade tree mechanic" to replace the Tranny filter. I
did and Voila! issue resolved until 2017 when I had to do a Tranny rebuild.
I had a memory trip and remember that old school mechanic. Yes, I did, I replaced the tranny filter. Now, when I first unplug the
fluid drain, what came out looked like chocolate milk. I raised the front of the truck, and more of that stuff came out, about 9
quarts.
Now with the plate off, the magnet looked like a porcupine. cleaned all the crud off of the inside of plate. Used a rubber gasket, no
leaks at all btw.
Now I can go 76, to 77 mph and I am on 3k rpm's. Not exactly what it was before, but very close. It shifts very smooth.
I figure I will do the drain thing a couple more times, until the fluid is red and not chocolate brow.
But, what I can't explain is the drop in mileage, 10mpg. A drop from 14 to 16 HWay. I had a tune up done to it, and nothing. I
believe that at the start of this thread, I mentioned all that was done.......Darnest thing.
Anyway, that is my story.
If you have any words of wisdom or advise, please, I am all ears.
Stay safe.
Sionis.
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Rubble
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| Posted: Oct 23 2022 at 8:04am | IP Logged
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Sionis,
Very Glad that you got the Transmission Shifting good
again,, and that the RPM's are back where they should be
@ Interstate Speed's.
The ECU may need to be reset so that it can Relearn ~
Just a Wild Guess on my part. That might help your mpg.
Something isn't getting the Fuel Mixture just right so
that you get the mpg's back to where it was. I know that
it is expensive,, but I myself would want a Nissan
MasterTech hook it up to make sure all the Sensor's that
control the Fuel Mixture are working as they should.
Maybe do some reading on the MAF Sensor in the Air Pipe.
From what I've read they are only supposed to be cleaned
by MAF Cleaner and you have to be careful doing it
correctly.
The Dark ATF Fluid is I'm thinking Clutch Friction
Material. I'm thinking that is from Slipping but again
just a wild guess.
When I had my 1993 that I bought Brand New, I wanted to
keep and drive it as long as I could, before putting too
much money into it. I did do the Preventative
Maintenance on it according to the Service Manual and the
Owner's Manual. At about 20 year's old and 174K mile's I
had to decide if I wanted to keep it and spend whatever
it took to keep it in tip top condition or to get a New
Truck. It was hard decision,, but @ 20 year's and 174K
mile's I decided that for me,, it would be best to Buy a
New Truck that I could afford and also get a little
bigger engine so that It would pull My utility Trailer
loaded with my Tractor.
I say the above because I found out that Nissan in the
Past offered a "VPP Discount" for those with a Nissan
that wanted a New Nissan. Not all the VPP Discount's in
the past were the same,, but for Original Owner's I think
that they offered the best VPP. If interested you'll
have to call Nissan Consumer Affair's and ask them if you
can get a VPP to get a New Nissan. Their Phone # is in
the Owner's Manual or you can google and find their # on
the Internet. They gave me a Real Good VPP on my 2013
SVV6 Frontier. It made a lot of difference and made it
possible for me. I'm not adviseing you to get a New
Nissan Truck or Car,, but just letting you know.
Just to let you know how far they've come; @ 70 mph my
v6 4 liter is turning 2K rpm. This is with the V6
Extended Cab Auto Trans 2WD with the 2.937 Final Drive
Ratio. In the City @ 30 mph I just barely have to touch
the Gas Pedal.
Let us know how it is going please.
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Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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sionisprioratus
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| Posted: Oct 23 2022 at 5:17pm | IP Logged
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Barney,
Thank you so much for your prompt reply.
I hear you about being time to retire the old work horse, specially at 320k (It is the
longest relationship that I have had.. pretty sad I know).
Now, something that you said at the tail end of your message: That you have to barely
touch the gas pedal. I noticed that I have to push the gas pedal a lot further than what I
used to do, to reach certain speeds.
Do the cables that go from the gas pedal to the throttle on top of the plenum estrech?
In fact, this afternoon while driving on I65 I had the pedal almost all the way before it
reached 70 to 75 mph. Also, it is constantly downshifting. I have it on cruise control at
75, and out of the blues, it would downshift and go to near 4k rpm's, I would disengage
the CC, coast for a while, rpm's will drop. Set CC back on, a semi goes by me, and it
downshifts again.....
I did replace the MAF sensor a while back, and I have cleaned it with MS cleaner, but
your advise to have all SW and sensors check, is a spot on idea.
Your suggestion to look into VPP is great. Sooner or later is going to have to happen.
Again, thank you for taking the time to write back.
Sionis
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Rubble
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| Posted: Oct 24 2022 at 12:15am | IP Logged
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sionisprioratus wrote:
Barney,
Thank you so much for your prompt reply.
I hear you about being time to retire the old work horse,
specially at 320k (It is the
longest relationship that I have had.. pretty sad I
know).
Now, something that you said at the tail end of your
message: That you have to barely
touch the gas pedal. I noticed that I have to push the
gas pedal a lot further than what I
used to do, to reach certain speeds.
Do the cables that go from the gas pedal to the throttle
on top of the plenum estrech?
In fact, this afternoon while driving on I65 I had the
pedal almost all the way before it
reached 70 to 75 mph. Also, it is constantly
downshifting. I have it on cruise control at
75, and out of the blues, it would downshift and go to
near 4k rpm's, I would disengage
the CC, coast for a while, rpm's will drop. Set CC back
on, a semi goes by me, and it
downshifts again.....
I did replace the MAF sensor a while back, and I have
cleaned it with MS cleaner, but
your advise to have all SW and sensors check, is a spot
on idea.
Your suggestion to look into VPP is great. Sooner or
later is going to have to happen.
Again, thank you for taking the time to write back.
Sionis |
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Sionis,
I've never had Throttle Cable's to stretch on a Car or
Truck,, but I have had that to happen on Motorcycle's,
etc. Also the same with the Set Screw on the End of the
Cable on small engine's to work loose and slip. But I
haven't had this to happen on a Car or Truck yet.
To me it sound's like the Truck is allready laboring
along,, and doesn't take much extra to cause it to
downshift to a lower gear. Like what happen's when going
up a steep hill. Might be the Brake's dragging again,,
or if the Brake's got too hot,, then it may have gotten
the Grease in the Wheel Bearing's hot and cooked the
Grease. Just a Guess though. I would want the
MasterTech to diagnose what is going on.
I've got a rideing lawnmower that is 33 year's old, which
is the oldest motor that I have right now. I want to try
and keep it going as long as it doesn't cost me too much.
I've come to really like the old mower and it has become
part of my hobby to keep it going as long as I can.
When it come's to my personal transportation Vehicle, I
try and look at it this way. How much is it going to cost
me to keep it in Tip Top Running condition? When That
cost get's to a certain point along with Age and part's
availability, I add up the cost's and ask myself should I
invest in my current vehicle or should I put that money
on a New Vehicle and Also Sell or Trade my current
vehicle and use that money as well against the New
Vehicle. That's sort of a simplified version of how I
justify buying a new Vehicle. I guess it's sort of like
Drinking or Partying; Knowing When to say When. For me
it's makeing the move before a major breakdown or
spending too much money to keep it going. Again I'm not
adviseing to get a New Truck or Car, but just thinking
out loud I guess. I'd much rather see you in a New
Frontier than haveing to call the Ambulance/Wrecker and
Dealing with the Funeral Home/Salvage Yard! 
With a Good VPP, if Nissan will give you one, it might
make all the difference.
Here's hopeing there is a good outcome,
__________________
Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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Nissan Frontier Forums : Problems / Technical
Topic: Feels like the brakes are engaged.
