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davidjbrady
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| Posted: Nov 05 2025 at 7:18pm | IP Logged
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Hi, Coming home from work today on the freeway, was doing
about 40mph felt truck jerk, and the 4WD light flashed but
quickly went dim and the light was off. Truck then died.
It would not restart right away, restarted 2 minutes later
no issue.
Had truck towed home to be safe. Hooked up OBD II scanner
found no codes. Also never saw the check engine light come
on except when it died. I am thinking it might be the
transfer case 4WD actuator. I never saw the 4X4 image to
indicate 4X4 was engaged. Also truck starts up now, no
issue, I did put in 4X4 hi, low, and back to 2Wd with no
issue, while vehicle was parked and running. Indicator
showed vehicle was in 4X4. I did not hear any clunking. Is
there a way to test the actuator? Any other suggestions
from this group? Truck has 170K miles, no issues until
now. Truck was not put in 4X4 when on the highway.
__________________
08 Frontier CC, 4X4, LWB
15 Altima S
Sacramento, CA
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Rubble
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| Posted: Nov 06 2025 at 3:43pm | IP Logged
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davidjbrady wrote:
Hi, Coming home from work today on
the freeway, was doing
about 40mph felt truck jerk, and the 4WD light flashed but
quickly went dim and the light was off. Truck then died.
It would not restart right away, restarted 2 minutes later
no issue.
Had truck towed home to be safe. Hooked up OBD II scanner
found no codes. Also never saw the check engine light come
on except when it died. I am thinking it might be the
transfer case 4WD actuator. I never saw the 4X4 image to
indicate 4X4 was engaged. Also truck starts up now, no
issue, I did put in 4X4 hi, low, and back to 2Wd with no
issue, while vehicle was parked and running. Indicator
showed vehicle was in 4X4. I did not hear any clunking. Is
there a way to test the actuator? Any other suggestions
from this group? Truck has 170K miles, no issues until
now. Truck was not put in 4X4 when on the highway. |
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Did You Check The Fluid Level's In The Drive Train?
It's 17 Year's Old @ 170K Mile's. You Felt A Jerk. ** Red Flag**.
Start with the Simple Stuff 1st, CHECK ALL FLUID LEVEL'S,
Underneath Drive Train, etc. Then go for the complicated stuff.
Be sure to Take The Radiator Cap Off ***Engine Cold ~ Remove
Reservoir Cap 1st To Relieve Pressure***. Make Sure Coolant
Look's Good. Correct Color, Etc...
Might be time to get a Professional to check it all out,, if you're
not able to do it yourself...
__________________
Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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davidjbrady
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| Posted: Nov 08 2025 at 11:02am | IP Logged
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Thanks for the input, I took my truck for a drive today,
still no code, but my scanner picked up a "pending P0335"
which is the crank position sensor. I've ordered a new one,
Hitatch branded since I've read the cheaper brands don't
last. I did replaced the cam sensors a few years back when
I got those trouble codes.
Thank you.
David
__________________
08 Frontier CC, 4X4, LWB
15 Altima S
Sacramento, CA
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Rubble
Moderator Group
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| Posted: Nov 08 2025 at 1:58pm | IP Logged
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davidjbrady wrote:
Thanks for the input, I took my truck for
a drive today,
still no code, but my scanner picked up a "pending P0335"
which is the crank position sensor. I've ordered a new one,
Hitatch branded since I've read the cheaper brands don't
last. I did replaced the cam sensors a few years back when
I got those trouble codes.
Thank you.
David |
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Thanks for getting back to us, letting us know how it is going.
The Crank Sensor sound's like it might very well be the problem,
with the PO335 Trouble Code.
I haven't needed to Replace the Cam or Crank Sensor's on
mine yet. I've read that it is a good idea to replace all 3 @ The
same time. You've allready replaced the cam sensor's so I don't
see any need to replace them again so soon.
I've also read that the Nissan OE Sensor's are the one's to get
and that the Hitachi are the same. It may be stamped on the
sensor what the brand is. I Hope it is easier to replace the
Crank Position Sensor Than the Cam Sensor's. I watched a
video of a fellow changeing them out. He didn't have much
room to work with and couldn't really see the area very good.
He had to feel with his hand's and look @ the New Sensor's to
Figure out how they disengage, Come Out and Go Back in. I
don't know how much Nissan would charge for that,, but I'm
pretty sure it wouldn't be cheap though.
Anyway I think you've got a Good Game Plan to get going
again.
I don't think that I would drive it though, until you get that Crank
position Sensor Replaced. Might leave you stranded or might
even cause some type of damage to the engine since it is
regulateing the Fireing System.
Your Truck is getting older and the mile's are racking up, So it
is Very Important to keep a Check on All The Fluid's, Especially
how the Coolant is looking in the Radiator (Especially If Your's is
an AT), Rear Axle Houseing ( Leak's can cause the Level to get
Too Low resulting in Extreme Wear Fast). I've changed the Oil
in the Rear Axle Houseing a Couple Time's on mine and so far it
is nice and clean.
About once a year or so I take the Rear Axle Vent Valve Out,
Run some Diesel Fuel Through it and blow it out with
compressed air. I recently did this about 3 month's ago and also
checked the Level.
Early on I installed a ScanGauge II on my 2013, that I leave
Plugged into the OBD II Port. It give's me a Real Time Read out
on the AT Temp's, System Voltage, Coolant Temp, ETC. It also
will store the Trouble Code's that I can pull from the unit. I have
it mounted in the Tray on Top of the Dash Panel. Easy for me to
see,, and Keep a Monitor on the Temperature's, Especially the
AT.
Good Luck and Let us know if you can how it is going.
__________________
Barney
2013 SV V6 Frontier KC/AT/2WD; Previous 20 yrs ~ '93 I4 Hardbody KC/AT/2WD, Sold.
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Nissan Frontier Forums : Problems / Technical
Topic: 08 Frontier jerk 4X4
