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Frontier Modifications (Performance & Looks)
 Nissan Frontier Forums : Frontier Modifications (Performance & Looks)
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deluxedirt
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Posted: Jun 02 2007 at 1:49am | IP Logged Quote deluxedirt

I recently purchased a new 06 Frontier Crew Cab 4x4 and love everything about the truck, except the fuel economy (16 city/20 hwy).  I have seen several posts on cold air intakes and throttle body spacers, but have no experience in these 'add-ons'.  Does anyone have any suggestions or comparison info on air kits from K&N, AFE, AEM, & Airaid, or TB spacers from Poweraid, & Helix?  Also, what exhaust options have others tried and what, if any, changes were experienced.  Suggestions and info are appreciated, Nissans are a new path for me, so far - so good - goes anywhere.

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lakota
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Posted: Jun 02 2007 at 5:30pm | IP Logged Quote lakota

..

deluxedirt;

Hi; and welcome to th group!

I am a person that has studied fuel mileage and experimented with it for over 50 years and yes I'm a crotchety old phart but my reaction time when the light turns green is seldom beat . And I've blown a few bucks on many projects for fuel mileage and additional power while being a line mechanic.

Our sweet little Datsun mini trucks have been bloated into big gas guzzling over powered parking place hogs. To top it off the power (BTUs) in the fuel ain't what it used to be and corn juice added to gasoline reduces power 3 to 8 percent.

A search for 'intake exhaust' has found 39 results

Boosting Fuel Mileage updated 06.03.06

... It takes X amount of power to move gasoline engine vehicles from point to point. The engine converts gasoline to heat as the power source. Much more than fifty percent of the heat is wasted unused and is dissipated though the radiator and exhaust system. Large cubic displacement engines normally consume more fuel than smaller engines but this is not a ‘hard’ fact. One of the fuel saving technologies is reducing the of fuel using ‘cubic inches’ of the engine when full power is not required.

... Here is a list of a few of the mechanical things that can effect fuel mileage.

Cam and ignition timing, cam lift, duration and valve size. Leaky fuel delivery systems with vented vapor losses, restricted air induction systems i.e. dirty filters. Intake air can also be too hot or cold Restricted exhaust scavenging systems. Operating temperatures of fuel and engine. Carburetors with bad power valves, accelerator pumps and fouled choke systems. Carbon fouled injectors, sparkplugs, and piston rings. Type of transmission, automatics without lock-up converters and over-drives, gear ratios. The type of tires, tire size, the tire pressures and the wheel alignment. Example; Just think, is it possible that larger wider tires require less ‘toe in’ that could reduce drag and get better fuel mileage? The vehicle speed, the load, the wind speed and direction. The list can continue on including the type and additive mix of the gasoline. Gasoline blends are changed continually by area, altitude and season.

Wind resistance increases as a square of the speed at which you are traveling. For an example, at 70 mph, wind resistance is double what it was at 50 mph, I.e. 70 mph squared is nearly double as 50 mph squared. So the faster speeds require more power and fuel

The driver knowledge and ability is the big factor for achieving the best fuel mileage if the vehicle is in proper condition.

Make sure the odometer in the vehicle is showing correct mileage. Increasing the diameter of the tires will reduce the amount of miles shown on the odometer. Keep a record of all fuel amounts, the mileage and the Miles Per Gallon between each gas-up. The record can be helpful in spotting problems with the engine when there is a sudden drop in mileage.

An example of the simple formula is 200 miles divided by 10 gallons = 20 MPG

Full tank amounts will vary due to air trapped in the tank but the MPG will average out in the long run.

Here are a few thoughts about saving fuel.

First thing a driver will notice when they start to conserve fuel is it will agitate other drivers around his vehicle. Please be considerate of other drivers who have no concept of your economy driving. The other drivers want to race to the next stoplight and remember, if they don’t get there quick enough they won’t get to stop!

1. Think about driving as an art while doing so. Stop rubber-necking, turn off the music, the cell and drive.

2. Install a dash-mounted vacuum gauge and use it. As the fuel mileage drops the vacuum needle drops. Try to prevent the needle from dropping below five inches. Readings will change with altitude changes.

3. Drive as if you had a fresh egg taped on the accelerator AND brake pedals.

4. Apply accelerator and brake petals smoothly.

5. Reduce speed as much and as soon as possible. Speeds above 50 MPH eat into the pocketbook!

6. Scan far ahead of your vehicle for traffic control signals and things that will allow you to ‘get off the gas’ sooner so you don’t have to ‘hit’ the brakes as hard – later. The over use of brakes means fuel has been wasted.

7. Drive as if your afraid your brakes are in poor condition and you are trying to save them.

8. Purchase your fuel in the morning when it’s cool and keep the tank full.

9. Air you tires up when they are cold and on the plus side of the recommended pressure and check them often especially on cold days.

10. Small amounts of high quality low ash synthetic Out Board 2cycle oil in the fuel (less than ¼ Oz per gallon) will clean and lubricate and reduce friction. The low ash oil will help the following items for better fuel mileage and life; electric gyrator fuel pumps, carburetor/injector parts, spark plugs, valve stems, compression rings and EGR systems. One sticky fuel injector can drop fuel mileage by one third.

11. Air dams can enhance cooling and reduce aerodynamic drag. Reduce the amount of air getting under the truck because the underside of vehicles create much air turbulence and drag at highway speeds. Bug shields, sun visors, wind deflectors and large outside mirrors can reduce fuel mileage.

12. The effect of heavy loads is detrimental to fuel mileage and brake life.

13. Modifying a vehicle with lifts and large wide tires is detrimental to fuel mileage and brake life.

14. Cruise control may save fuel in ‘flatlands’ but may not be economical in hilly country.

15. In hilly country do not allow the down hill run to cause engine ‘braking’ i.e. slowing down the vehicle unnecessarily. Run your fastest speed at the bottom of a hill and the slowest at the top. ... Only use engine braking when the vehicle is going to gain excessive and unsafe speed that would have required a fair amount of regular brakes. Excessive downhill braking can cause many heat related problems. Among these are warped rotors, brake fade, boiling brake fluid, wearing out pads, over heating seals, bearings and lubricants.

... Down hill engine braking and downshifting for increased engine braking is not going to consume very much fuel because the throttle will be closed. Long downhill runs of five or more percent grades are a good time for downshift engine braking. Two miles of seven-percent grades with curves should be mandatory.

So in hilly country it's a case of the having to use more throttle to regain the speed you lost by allowing short periods of unnecessary engine braking.

16. Allow the engine to warm up and/or drive gently till it does. Cold engines get poor fuel mileage.

17. Put the transmission in neutral or stop the engine when long waits in traffic are encountered i.e. train crossings and long red traffic lights.

18. Reduce the Air Conditioning and the electrical demands on the alternator. Alternators draw much horsepower and extra fuel so fancy lights and sound systems burn extra gasoline and bother other peoples eyes and ears.

19. If the automatic transmission is equipped with overdrive and/or lock-up torque converter learn at what speeds it changes gears/locks. Often one can get the transmission into overdrive and lock the converter sooner by backing off the accelerator pedal a little at the right time.

20. Having the windows rolled down at highway speeds create extra aerodynamic drag and might use more horsepower than the airconditioner.

21. Hey!.. wake-up!! do you have any other ideas?

Have a good one while you can still laugh about it.. Don S..

Corn Ethanol: Our government is hoodwinking Americans and making a few people rich. We have a 50 cent per gallon tariff against importing ethanol and subsidize our ethanol refiners 54 cents per gallon with our tax dollars. And using Corn Ethanol will drive food prices up! Another case where lobbyists make the laws!



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PLEASE >>> A SIG similar to mine can be VERY HELPFUL to all the members!
'99 4x4 3.3 Frontier Se KC Auto, 48,000 miles
'76 4x4 401 Wagoneer QT
'04 FWD 1.8 Sentra '08 FWD 2.4 Camry LE
Fort Worth
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EB_05_NISMO
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Posted: Jun 02 2007 at 7:09pm | IP Logged Quote EB_05_NISMO

All of the aftermarket air intakes produce close to the same gains so it doesn't really matter which one you go with. Many pick the one they think looks best to them. The peak gains are usually above 3000 rpm so that is where you might notice the performance increase (note: most intakes get you about 10-12 hp, but since that number is fairly low that can be hard for some to notice). For increased mileage you may see 1 to 2 mpg's more, but many like to hear the intake suck air (at first anyways) so they are heavy on the throttle thus they lose some mpg's. Intakes also tend to help throttle response and usually sound good at wide open throttle (WOT).

A similar thing goes for exhausts. They do help the engine get rid of exhaust gases better, but they usually only provide at best 1-2 mpg increase and 10 or so hp. Many people get aftermarket exhausts for the way they sound. One thing to watch for when looking at exhausts is the pipe diameter and if they replace the stock y-pipe (which I hear is the biggest restriction on the 2nd generation trucks) . If you go to large (3 inches or more) you can lose back pressure which in turn makes you lose torque. I believe the stock Y pipe is 2.25 inches and 2.5 inches for the rest of the piping. Also Mandrel bent piping is said to be better than standard piping.

I went with a stainless steel (get stainless steel instead of aluminized steel if you live near the ocean or get winter weather, it will last longer in corrosive environments)bolt in system from Bassani Exhaust because it replaced the y-pipe with a new less restrictive 2.25 inch y-pipe, had 2.5 inch pipe on the rest of the system, I heard their quality was very good, I could do it myself in my driveway, and I could go back to stock fairly easy if I needed to. A custom exhaust from a local shop is cheaper but it is welded in and you should make sure they have a mandrel bender for the piping. Some people have also just put a new muffler in (to help with flow a little and change the sound of the exhaust) and kept the stock piping since it is mandrel bent.

As far as throttle body spacers most have said they don't really do anything for our trucks. I considered getting one at one point in time, but many many people said they were not worth it therefore I opted against it.

There are many opinions on these items, some swear by them and other say they are a waste of money. They seem to help more with performance than with gas mileage. In the end it is your truck, do what you want to do with it.


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